October 21, 2013
Honolulu, Hawai’i – This week I had the opportunity to keep a promise to visit a friend on Oahu. While we discussed where to meet for dinner, she mentioned a Jamaican restaurant she and her husband had gone to and really liked. (She knows of my love of Jamaican food. What she didn’t know was that I happened to be wearing a Jamaican shirt that day.) Say no more, I’m sold!
I arrived early since I was unfamiliar with the area. Parking in the lot was not a problem. I walked around the inside of the lot looking for the eatery. Then walked around the outside of the mall looking for it. I walked down about two blocks and then back up, and still didn’t see it. Then I turned down 11th street, and walked back into the parking lot ready to make a second circuit. Back at the car, I turned around and headed toward a walkway that led back to 11th street. And there it was! I had parked right in front of it. Looking up, I noticed the microscopic sign above the second seating area.
Jawaiian Irie Jerk Restaurant has two small seating areas: a small bar-stool-and-counter patio-style area that faces the parking lot. The main dining area is down the walkway I mentioned earlier. That breezeway has a really cool tropical vibe about it – as it should. The front has a thatched covering. You’ll also find the stenciled graphic of Guy Fieri; yep, Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives was here. Take a minute to view the mural on the wall. (I didn’t bring a camera today so you’ll have to go to this Food Smackdown page to see photos.) And the lighting is very colorful and relaxing. You’ll really appreciate the Jamaican artwork on the walls, especially if you’ve spent time in Jamaica.
By now you’re probably thinking you’re already in Jamaica and you haven’t even gotten inside yet. When you do walk in, you’ll be greeted with a friendly smile and usually seated immediately. If you arrive at the right time, owner Chef Cassie will come out to greet you. Feelin’ irie yet?
Maybe I should back up a minute and talk about something that may have you scratching your head: A Jamaican restaurant in Hawai’i?! And one that fuses Jamaican fare with Hawaiian flavor?! Yes! You’ll find the fusion running through the music here on this island, too; Hawaiian style based on a heavy Reggae beat. Jawaiian. Got it?
With some music wafting through the restaurant, we quickly settled into the vibe of the place. Because there was only one other small group in the restaurant when we arrived, our orders were taken promptly and we were served quickly.
Our trio ordered the Jerk Shrimp with Coconut Curry Sauce ($8.25) as an appetizer. As if the décor hadn’t already scored points, the presentation of the shrimp scored even more. The plump and juicy shrimp come skewered on a sugar cane spear. Using sugar cane is a stroke of genius; the heat from the shrimp drew out a bit of sweetness from the cane, which you can get a hint of when you bite into the shrimp. It’s just the tiniest hint, but when you do taste it, it cuts through the spiciness of the jerk seasoning quite nicely.
Chef Cassie’s skill is on full display with this dish. He is able to add just the right amount of jerk seasoning to the shrimp without overpowering it. Trust me, that is not an easy feat. Then he is able to do the same thing with the coconut curry sauce by reining in the spiciness of the curry so that the coconut had a chance to come through. Now put them both together. My taste buds have been taken up a few levels. I really like how the flavor of the jerk shrimp, which was addictive just by itself, was elevated by the coconut curry. I would order this again in a heartbeat.
For my drink, I decided to try something new. Ginger beer is very popular in Jamaica yet I never had one before. Jawaiian Irie makes something called Pineapple Ginger Brew ($4.95). “Made from the skin of our local pineapple and fresh ginger with Aunty Vicky’s twist”. Intriguing, especially the pineapple part. It took only two sips to get used to this new taste. Following that, the next thing I noticed was how refreshing it was, especially in Hawai’i’s climate. The ginger was not as prevalent as I expected. But it had enough bite to ensure that I took my time drinking it.
For the entrée, it was a close call between the Jerk Ribeye and Jamaican Curry Goat. In the end, I went with the goat. It came down to price, although one of the members of our trio did order the ribeye. As I’ve mentioned in this blog before, finding curry goat outside of Jamaica is a real treat and when I do find it, I’ll order it almost every time.
Jamaican Curry Goat ($18.95) is served with rice and peas (the correct way to say it in Jamaica; not beans and rice). The rice and peas were fluffy. Actually tasting coconut milk in the rice and peas was another affirmation of Chef Cassie’s credentials. It went well with the curry goat.
When ordering curry goat in the states, I always compare it to the first time I had it in Jamaica. I may need to rethink that strategy because the bar was set incredibly high there. Jawaiian Irie’s curry goat had a good amount of spices in the curry without being very hot. The meat itself was very tender and not gamey. Not many bones, which I appreciate. Joining the party were carrots, peppers, onions, and a few other vegetables. I did enjoy the dish but there was something missing. Or maybe it was the fusion that threw me. I just couldn’t put my finger on it. I ate half of the meal and decided to take the rest to go for lunch/dinner the next day. I ended up eating the rest at the airport. Of course, by then the flavors had a chance to really mingle together and work their way into the goat.
Jawaiian Irie does serve desserts, which they warn you to eat in moderation because they are addicting. I’ll have to prove that claim next time. And when I do come back, I will definitely have their Jerk Ribeye. Fred, one of our trio, obviously enjoyed his ribeye because there was nothing left. Oh, and I’ll have to try their jerk wings. And…
You don’t need reservations, but as I said above, Jawaiian Irie is a small place with not a lot of seating. If you have a group larger than eight, you will need to call ahead. Personally, I think the ideal group size is four or less. Although I dine alone often, I’d rather enjoy some company here. The food and the atmosphere make for a fabulous experience.
Jawaiian Irie Jerk Restaurant – 4.5 forks. Highly recommended. A must if you are on the island and craving Jamaican food.
Update: May 26, 2019. KHON2 reports that Jawaiian Irie closed on March 30th of last year. Owner Caswell “Cassie” Simmonds is moving back to Jamaica. Chef Cassie sends his thanks to the people of Hawaii for their support.
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